Casanova, one of history’s most renowned libertines, used the opposite method to that of Doctor Livingstone when it came to knowing a city (and Casanova spent his life travelling around Europe): by diving into the nightlife, into the revelry and shady corners. In 1767, passing through Madrid, he went to an evening celebration in Los Caños del Peral (where the Teatro Real now stands). The dance which was then very much in vogue was the fandango, which he de- fined as ‘the most seductive dance in the world… Its move- ments are among the most lascivious that can be imagined… No woman can deny anything to her partner after this dance, which awakens the senses.’ He calculated-exaggerating somewhat, the rascal-that in Madrid there were a four hundred thousand young girls who were simply for someone to ask them for a dance’.The boisterous and noctambular side of Ma well-known. And, towards the and of the 20th century it has become the capital of Europe, as far as nightlife is concerned.

In summer and autumn, it turns into something celebratory riot. The Paseo de la Castellana, the sp artery of the futuristic and cybernetic Madrid, is take by a mob of people eager for laughter, flirtation, goss short-term romantic expectations. There are dozens races besieged by thousands of people, mainly bright things of both sexes, who go to look and be looked at. is an abundance of celebrities from the worlds of film atre, fashion, music, literature, enlightened rowdine the gossip magazines.

A similar wildlife can be found other area which is also very lively, the Paseo de Re near the Parque del Oeste. For those who prefer a quieter night out, albe which is no less suggestive, there is a choice of hundr late-night bars and discos spread all over the city, mai the centre, which stay open until well into the small This timetable is also shared by the cafés and bars wit music. Any day of the week, it is possible to listen to new and established artists performing live while reasonably priced drink.

Everything is there: jazz, roc roll, salsa, singer-songwritirs, two-step, flamenco, ethni sic, magic, comedy… Check the daily press for details. After four in the morning, more or less, the night begins, which is also Baroque, but darker and mo triguing. Almost all premises will have an unfriendly— downright nasty and arrogant-bouncer. The best way ting into these joints is to team up with waiters who hav ished their working day and have gone out to let off s These waiters know the ropes and will introduce you int area with ease.

Moreover, they will help you out with ti that you don’t get caught up in scabrous orgies or fall int clutches of unsavoury types.youSome of these heroic fighters will refuse to g sleep as early as seven in the morning. If it’s a Sunday, will pass by the Plaza de Cascorro for coffee and churros. still have enough verve to try a glass of sweet wine. Through a mist they will be able to make out the countless vendors of Rastro setting up their stalls for a multitudinary, chaotic, cessary and ecumenical open-air market.It is worth advising people that it is better to leave car at home when doing the night rounds, and to use taxis, ich in Madrid are legion.